INHALE. EXHALE. REPEAT

You begin your journey from Bangkok airport and cruise 3 hours down the highway to the beachside town of Hua Hin. As you pull up to the retreat you are welcomed by a warming Thai smile, bow, and softely spoken 'Sawadee ka'. The familiar smell of lemongrass, coupled with the trickling sound of the waterfall nearby - you feel instantly relaaaaxed....

 

 

Welcome to the Chiva-Som, the 'Haven of life'. After lunch, I head to the spa for my initial wellness consultation where you are weighed (now regret ordering that pad thai AND mango sticky rice for lunch!), your blood pressure is taken, ailments are discussed and goals are set. 

 

What did I want to get out of the next 5 days? 

Improve flexibility - yes, weight management - always,  fitness - of course, relaxation - most definitely! So I signed up for the 'Chiva-Som Taster' program, which is perfect for first-timers who want to sample a little of everything, so then next time you can choose a more specific program.

 

The next 5 days went something like this...

Morning:- breakfast + stretch class + 2 x Fitness classes

Afternoon:- lunch + relaxing poolside for an hour + 1 x Fitness class + 1 x Spa treatment

Evening:- daily massage + dinner
 

This schedule delivered a balance of physical activity, pamper and relaxation and of course food! Speaking of food, you are spoilt for choice. Everything is organic with wheat/gluten/dairy-free options, and a mixture of vegeterian, seafood and meat dishes, each thoughtfully put together and carefully calorie-counted. Between the International cuisine served at the Emerald Room restaurant, and the poolside Taste of Siam restaurant, there was something for everyone's pallet and diet. 

If weight loss is your goal and you are visiting over the weekend, save your 'cheat meal' for Saturday's beachside BBQ. The fresh seafood and tender meat skewers on an open-flame grill, paired with a bottle of Bordeaux's finest, is definitely worth the wait (excuse the pun).

 

Of all the treatments the "Super Stretch" really felt the most beneficial. This 1on1 treatment is whereby a therapists stretches you out, pushing your limits, helping to realign your spine and improve your posture. I also gave Thai boxing a go and even fruit carving - when in Thailand, right!

                                       

Ideally, you need one week minimum as it takes a couple of days just to adjust to the Chiva-Som pace, and then your really start feeling the benefits. Even after just five days, although the number on the scales was not any lower (I blame the moreish home-made fruit sorbets, a different flavour every day), I checked out feeling fabulously rested, pampered and one inch closer to doing the splits.
 

Balance restored and mission accomplished.

GER ETIQUETTE

North of China and south of Russia, this landlocked mass called Mongolia is the setting of my last trip.

Some interesting & random facts I learnt during my 6 days there:

1. To try and ease the city congestion in Ulaanbaatar, all car number plates are regulated. Depending on your last number you cannot drive between peak hours 8-10am Mon-Fri. For example, car plates ending in number 5 cannot drive on Tuesday mornings
2. Throat singing originated in Mongolia and is considered a musical instrument in its' own right. Check it out, there's nothing quite like it!
3. Some cars have their steering wheels on the right side, some of the left side, depending on where it was imported from. All cars drive on the right side of the road. You only need 1 license for both.
4. The capital Ulaanbaatar is 1350m above sea level
5. Contortionists originated in Mongolia where folk dancers as young as five were trained to be flexible, later developing into contortionist art form.
   
6. Mongolia won it's 1st Olympic Gold medal in the Beijing 2008 Olympics for judo. The whole country celebrated making Naidangiin Tüvshinbayar a national hero.
7. It takes 40 min to kill, bleed, separate parts of one sheep. This is done daily at 7am where the buyers meet the farmers on the city outskirts to buy the meat for the city
8. Hitchhiking is common, even just within the city itself.  People stand on the curb thumb out, and anyone can earn a few extra Tughrik by picking them up.
9. The piles of rocks you see at the side of the road are offerings to the mountain spirits for safe passage. These are called Ovoo.
   
10. Hustai National Park is the proud home of an abundant wildlife of the Przewalksi wild horse -Takhi, the Grey wolf, marmots, vultures, yaks and eagles.

For the true 'tourist' Mongolian experience, one must head for the mountains and sleep in a ger (or 'yurt' as foreigners call them). Like when visiting any foreign place, it's a good idea to familiarise yourselves with the local custom and etiquette to ensure you do not offend or come across rude.

Take note:

• do not step on the ger doorsill when walking through the door
• enter the ger in a clockwise direction
• do not walk through the two main central pillars that hold the ger up
• always accept food if offered, whether you're hungry or not
• never stand up whilst drinking tea, always be seated
• instead of knocking on the door, before entering a ger clear your throat and yell out "no-khoi kho-rio" which translates to 'catch/hold your dog' as traditionally most gers are guarded by a couple of dogs.

All the food seemed to be a combination of mutton (not lamb!), beef, flour in various forms (noodles, pastries) and milk products (yak, cow, goat milk in dried pellets, alcohol milk, cheese, tea). The main flavour was salt and onions. Potatoes and cabbage were the vegetables on repeat.

The highlight of my trip was to spend the day with a nomadic family, seeing and understanding their daily chores, activities and nomadic way of life. Contact info@juulchin.com who can arrange a visit to a nomadic family, staying overnight in a ger and any other sightseeing during your stay. Horseriding through the mountains or Gobi dessert if you have enough time to get out there, is an experience in itself. 

Don't miss the Mongolian traditional dancing where you can see firsthand the famous throat singing, contortionists and incredibly talented horse-fiddle playing, which transports you back to the times of the great Chinggis Khan.

This land of milk and horses is a trip for the adventurous and independent traveler who will enjoy the outdoors, scenery, wildlife and history of these magical lands.

THE USA IN ASIA

This next destination was somewhat of an impulse decision. As much as I love traveling within Asia, for its' convenience, food and culture, I thought it was about time I mixed things up a bit. With only 4 days off over Easter, Europe seemed that little bit too far. I wanted somewhere I could fly direct to, with minimal time difference (as I had none spare for jet lag), and somewhere my parents and I hadn't been as this was to be their Christmas present from me. To those that know my parents you'd know there's very few places which they haven't been....so Guam it was!

I researched and read various travel forums, with not much luck. Besides snorkeling, diving, watersports and a worrying article about a snake epidemic being managed by paracetemol-filled rats dropped from helicopters (yikes!) it wasn't looking too promising as a holiday destination. And here's how it turned out...

Expectation ~ Guam is 'a poor man's version of Hawaii'

Reality  ~ Bang on! Huge chain hotels (e.g.. Westin, Hyatt, Nikko) with floral print cane furniture and the hotel staff wearing uniforms that matched

Expectation ~ Guam is rich in history with Spanish, Japanese and US influence 

Reality  ~ Numerous Spanish monuments, WWII memorials and landmarks are dotted around the island in memory of key dates in its' eventful history. I read in the local newspaper that there's still debate as to exactly where the Portugese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan, landed on the island back in 1521. 

Expectation ~ Guam is spoiled with beautiful beaches of white sand, blue water and coral reef

Reality  ~ The beaches did not disappoint delivering white sand, clear turquoise water that dropped off after the coral shelf into a dark ocean blue. Simply stunning. On the west coast at Agana Bay, high tide falls around 11-12, so after lunch the water level drops so much you can almost walk to the coral reef break and only get up to your ankles wet in the process!

Expectation ~ Guam would have a local micronesian-esque culture with tales of tribes, chiefs and mermaids

Reality ~ Apparently there was a mermaid story, and once an ancient Chamorros civilisation (descendants of Malay, Indo and Filipino's), but to be quite frank the dominating 'culture' today is only American. Wendy's, Denny's, Burger King, Taco Bell and Macy's lined the main Marine Corps Drive. Large sections of the island were gated US Navy restricted zones.

(Yee-Haw from the waiters at the Lone Star Steakhouse)

Expectation ~ Guam is popular with the Japanese tourists

Reality  ~ Now that's an understatement! Initally the historical relevance of the island obviously made it a popular destination for the Japanese. This resulted in numerious daily flights from airports all over Japan making it the perfect beach weekend away being well under 4 hrs to get there. Bus loads of Japanese tourists pulled up outside our hotel. They paid US$55 for the day to access kayaking, paddleboats, jetskis and a Japanese buffet lunch. I think ramen is the second most eaten dish on the island, after hamburgers of course.

My tips

Rent-a-car

Thrifty/Hertz etc are all available. Although you can probably drive around the whole island easily in 3 hrs, we took our time stopping off at lookout spots and various churches and headlands for some spectacular views of the coastline. So, it was great to have a car to explore at our own pace. We drove around the South part of the island (best view: Fort Santo Angel ) the first afternoon, and the North part (best view: Two Lovers Lookout) on the second. They drive on the same side of the car and road as in the US, which can take some getting used to, however, with only really one main road driving around the whole island, navigating is relatively straight forward.

The famous Tolofomo Falls is a bit of a theme park. My vision of gushing waterfalls in a lush jungle setting home to tropical birds, came to a crashing halt when I arrived in a carpark and was greeted by cute but muddy pigs and a disenchanted lady at the entrance asking for US$20 to see the falls. After a quick glance at the pamphlet she gave me, and seeing images of cable cars, other rides and a sign pointing to a replica of the cave the Japanese soldier, Sergeant Shoichi Yokoi, hid in for 28 years (the original had caved in), and no sign of birds, we drove on. The drive to these falls was very scenic so definitely worthwhile....20 USD to see a potentially dried-up rockface with a trickle of water, probably not.

There is no denying Guam has stunning beaches and some super snorkeling and diving so a perfect destination if you're a water baby. However, other cultural attractions, activities (other than golf and shopping) and services are somewhat lacking. There's no doubt back in its' heyday Guam must have been quite THE destination. However, I think until more development has been injected into its tourism offering, I'd probably say stick to the Philippines for equally great diving and beaches, as it's got just as many burger joints, but for a quarter of the price!

An experience nevertheless, and some wonderful time spent with my folks, so I left Guam with some fond memories.

THE PEARL OF THE INDIAN OCEAN

Somewhere in between the Maldives and India lies a small island, which is the beautiful setting of my last vacation.

After hearing countless stories from my Sri Lankan bf of the pristine white beaches, the picturesque 'upcountry' of waterfalls and rolling hills, and all the exotic animals, my expectations of this trip were huge. Sri Lanka did not disappoint. 

Now that the civil war has ended, development, especially in tourism is spreading throughout the country with the likes of Shangri-La opening up it's doors in the capital. The new Airport-Colombo city and Colombo-Galle highway has more than halved the travel time,  and in turn opened up the stunning beaches all along the south coast. 

8-night trip 

:- starting Colombo (1) - Galle - Tangalle beach (2, 3) - Udawalawe National Park (4) - Tea Trails (5, 6) - Kandy (7, 8). 

Contact info@totalholidayoptions.com 

**due to limited time, we did not visit the full 'tourist triangle' (incl Sigiriya Rock Fortress and Dambulla temples, Adam's Peak) so they will be on the cards for next time!

CHILL

Rivaling sunsets and beaches of the Maldives and surf like Bali, but a quarter of the price and far less people, I now know why Sri Lanka is on the Top List of Hottest destinations for 2014. As we wanted to visit the turtle hatchery on the way from Colombo to Galle we took the old road, which took double the time of the highway but the coastline scenery made up for it. Stretches of undeveloped beaches, some areas still in recovery from the devastating tsunami, a few more built up areas with old beach hotels....but nothing quite as stunning as the Amanwella. Aman-anything is pretty much a win. 

Amanwella (5*) ~ approx USD$500 - $800 / night (depending on season)

http://www.amanresorts.com/amanwella/home.aspx

Inspired by Geoffery Bawa's 'tropical modernism' architectual style, this small 30 all-pool-suite property has inarguably nabbed one of the most beautiful stretch of beach on the island. The suites are spread apart giving ultimate privacy in your private pool. The hotel's dog, 'Nero' that wanders about the grounds, was just one of the small touches that made this luxurious hotel so relaxed and friendly.

Not to mention, they sure know how to put on a wedding! (if anyone is in need of some destination wedding inspiration ;) )

EXPERIENCE

Luxury tented camping and safari

We arrived at our campsite after 2.5 hrs on the bitumen road, then a quick car switch to a 4WD to take on the dirt roads in Udawalawe National Park. After a lovely lunch by the river side next to our campsite, we set off for an afternoon safari. Our sunset timing was perfect. Not only did it make for a romantic drive, but all the animals came to life. Elephant herds crossed our path on their daily trek to their local water hole to bathe and cool off, flocks of birds circled the skies finding a place to rest their wings for the night, and crocodiles stretched out on the lake banks trying to catch the last rays of sun. 

I'm not really into birds, but if you are, this National park is where you want to be! There are over 433 species of birds on this tropical island. 

My tip:

- if you're half blind like me, take a pair of binoculars, I didn't, and so unfortunately I missed a lot

- if you're female wear a sports bra, you'll need the support after 4 hrs of seriously bumpy 4WD-ing

If you aren't as lucky as us and don't manage to see many or any wild elephants on safari, visit the Pinnawala Elephant orphanage, approx 1.5 hr drive outside of Kandy where disabled, deformed and orphaned elephants are looked after. Don't miss the baby elephants 1pm bottle feeding, and 2:30pm afternoon bathe down in the river.

Tea Estates

After a windy 4 hr drive from the National Park, the temperature dropped and the dusty plains turned into lush greenery and waterfalls. We had arrived in beautiful Nuriya Eliya, where tea bushes were as far as the eye could see. Green is said to be the most calming colour, and with this many different shades all around, you will feel instantly relaxed. 

Most accommodations along the tea trails will include a half day tour of their tea factory where you will see for yourself exactly how many people/hours (with such precision) all goes into making that perfect cuppa. From witnessing the manual labour that the tea-picking woman endure, to the different stages the leaf goes through to get graded (bruise/wilt --> chop --> sift), the competitive tea auctions up in Colombo and finally the intricacies of tea tasting....

Needless to say, I left with a newfound appreciate of my afternoon cuppa. 

Norwood Bungalow (5*) ~ approx USD$600 / room / night incl full board

http://www.teatrails.com/norwood-bungalow-gallery

Upon arrival, we were served high tea and our dinner order was placed. With only a handful of guest bedrooms and a shared dining and lounge/library area this was the sort of place you left your bedroom door open, no locks, no safes. It felt like home. Well, if home was the British colonial period and you owned the tea estate. I could have sat for days reading all the history books in the sitting room, with small birds fluttering in and out of the room looking for a stray scone and simply just soaking up the atmosphere of times gone by. 

Tea was served with every meal, and even paired with certain dishes at dinner.

For those that love the outdoors, there's plenty of trails and paths that wind around the tea crops to keep you busy for days. If we had had the time, I could have easily spent the whole week here.

Kandy, the cultural and religious centre of Sri Lanka, was historically the only city which could not be conquered due to its strategic location as its surrounded by hills. Each year in July, Kandy hosts the Festival of the Sacred Tooth - a colourful celebration of dancing, music and street parades. If you want to go for this, book well in advance as accommodation in Kandy of all standards sells out atleast 6 months prior.

My tip:

4:30pm        - arrive at the Rangahala Cultural Dance and reserve front row seats

4:30-5:00    - watch the lakeside life and grab yourself some street snacks to watch the 

                         show

5:00-6:00    - see a snapshot of the varied traditional dances, rituals, singing and music 

                        from different parts of the country, finishing with fire eating and fire walking 

                        (reserve aisle seats near the front for the best view)

6:00-6:30    - stroll along the lake side enjoying the sun set until you reach the Temple of 

                         the Sacred Tooth

6:30-7:30pm - see and hear the sound offering ritual, prayer time, lighting candles, and line 

                          up for a glimpse of the replica of Buddha's tooth

Get your timing right, and you'll have a wonderful evening :)

UNDERSTAND

This beautiful island played such a huge part in the spice trade with its' strategic key location and natural harbours, so it has a rich history as it was colonised by the Portugese, the Dutch and the British. The UNESCO heritage Galle Fort,  various heritage buildings, hotels and the tea estates are a modern day reminder of this history.  

My only qualm is the driving distances. For the ballers there are privates seaplanes that will land on various lakes and rivers throughout the country, so you avoid the windy 30km / hr roads. So for us average folk, bring some motion sickness tablets or a few spare plastic bags.

WHEN IN SRI LANKA

Challenge your taste buds, and spice things up! I love chilli as it is, and found my new favourite way to eat them - dried 'n fried in coconut oil and simply served with pappadum's. I was throwing them back like crisps! But don't worry, if you stay in a hotel with mostly foreigners, the spiciness will generally be toned down already if you can't take the heat. I must admit I was quite ignorant to the difference between Indian and Sri Lankan food, especially curries. After this trip, I found the main difference was that most things are cooked in coconut oil or with coconut products, not ghee like Indian food, so the curry is not as heavy and greasy. 

Must-eats:

Egg hoppers and string hoppers with sambal (a mixture of chilli's, crumbled Maldivian fish and coconut) for breakfast

Godumba roti, a flavourful late night street snack, popular post-clubbing. Definitely beats a dirty kebab any day!

Short-eats - savoury, buttery and herbed pastries and roti breads

Cheap and so tasty; perfect for lunch-on-the-go or car snacks for those long drives

For those with a sweet tooth, try the buffalo curd and treacle 

DJ's Restaurant (Don Jerome Codippily) in Kandy for some tasty home-style cooking, no frills, all flavour!

I may be a little biased, but the way I see it is Sri Lanka has something for everyone - beach, wildlife, culture, history, food - and is still such great value.  I simply cannot wait to go back.