Don't worry, this next post isn't a a monologue about my feelings, or something cheesy that Nds has done for me. This is about a trip I did one summer, to a place I always wanted to visit but didn't really know much about. This place is India.
When I think of India, I think of crowds, traffic jams dictated by a wandering cow, frequent trips to the bathroom due to Delhi belly, cricket, their history of the British colonial rule, Kharma Sutra, Gandhi, extreme poverty and extreme wealth, curry, henna tattoo's, more crowds and of course the Taj Mahal. It was all of these things but magnified, and more amazing than I could have imagined. The saying goes, you either love it or hate it, and I loved it!
A good introduction to this country is to follow the Golden Triangle path - Delhi, Agra and Jaipar. Experience the chaos of the capital, Delhi, then down to Agra to visit the Agra Fort and the incredible Taj Mahal. Across to the 'pink city' of Jaipur to ride elephants to the well preserved Amber Fort, and enjoy the splendour of a Rajasthan palaces.
What road rules!?
After a long 5-hr drive, some serious traffic jams and interesting overtaking, we arrived at the Trader's hotel in Agra. After a quick dip in the hotel pool and a curry dinner we opted for an early night as it would be a 4am start the following day.
We could hardly sleep in fear we'd sleep in and miss this daybreak opportunity. After a short drive (FYI: the Trader's hotel is a great location - close proximity to the Taj) we switched over to the battery-run buggy's which were the only vehicles permitted within 500m of the Taj to minimise pollution. Surprisingly there were only a handful of others arriving at the same time, so no queueing and no one photo-bombing your holiday snaps.
Walking through the gates and into the huge courtyard garden area, as the sun was rising, was truly breathtaking. Certainly pictures don't do it justice.
The grandeur of this complex is one thing, from the great gate, to the immaculate and extensive gardens to the impressive architecture of the mausoleum itself...but the story behind it, is another thing entirely.
After taking the typical 'jumping' and 'pinching' photos, our guide sat us underneath a shady tree in full view of the Taj Mahal and in a hushed voice, drew us back to 17th century when Maharajah's ruled India.
Like other love stories, it begins with a boy meeting a girl. Unlike other love stories, the boy in this story is Shah Jahan, the son of the fourth Mughal emperor of India and the grandson of Akbar the Great. During a visit to the Meena Bazar in his royal complex, he spots a girl hawking silk and glass beads. Her name was Arjumand Banu Begum and she was to change everything. The story goes, they fell in love at first sight. You know how hormones go wild at the tender age of 14 and 15. They married, and although she was not the only wife, she was his favourite given the title Mumtaz Mahal which meant 'Jewel of the Palace'. During the birth of their 14th child, she sadly passed away due to complications and he vowed to never remarry and promised to build the richest mausoleum over her grave.
The legend goes, for two years the court mourned, no celebrations and no parties. Then he started building the most beautiful monument in memory of his beloved. Taking inspiration from the idea of Heaven and the Koran, it took 22,000 labourers 22 years to complete. The white marble to construct the domes were brought by 1000 elephants from Makrana in Rajasthan. The crystal from China, the turquoise from Tibet, the sapphires from Sri Lanka and various other precious and semi-precious stones were sourced from all over Asia. The estimated cost back then was 32 million Rupees, which relative to today's value would be unimaginable.
Now knowing not only the factual how's and what's behind this wonder of the world before me, but the why, cemented this experience as one of my most memorable.
My tips:
- sacrifice some sleep to get up well before sunset to beat the crowds and experience the sunrise over these marble domes
- pay for a high-end tour company (eg. Luxe India) whose guides are some of the most experienced and knowledgable with such a genuine passion in their story-telling; we were lucky enough to have the same guide who took President Obama around the Taj, a large and larger than life, sweating Indian gentlemen who was born in Agra, schooled in the UK, and remembers when he was a young boy and he would play football with his school friends in the gardens here, before it became all bordered off for tourists
- do not go during the summer months (June - Sept), I went in August (lol apparently I work in travel!?) and the heat was unrelentless
Another long drive through more traffic jams, we arrived in Jaipur, also known as the 'pink city' due to the pinkish fortresses, palaces and temples. After all this talk of Mughals and Shah's, it was time to get our own taste of Indian royal hospitality.
For anyone visiting India, if budget permits treat yourself to any of the Taj properties. From the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai to the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur, they know how to do luxury and oppulance, in a non-gawdy way.
Rambagh Palace (5*) ~ approx USD$1500 / night in a Historical Suite including breakfast
http://www.tajhotels.com/Luxury/Grand-Palaces-And-Iconic-Hotels/Rambagh-Palace-Jaipur/Overview.html
Rambagh Palace was built in 1835 and remained the home of Jaipur's royalty until 1957. This was later converted into a stunning hotel by the Taj group. From the moment you step foot onto the property, you are treated like royalty. Entering in a Rolls Royce, top down of course, with peacocks roaming the vast grounds, you are met with a showering of flower-petals, a chorus of welcome's and then a brief history of the palace.
The decor although completely OTT, is fitting for royalty and decorated with luxurious taste.
This is just a snapshot of some of what "Incredible India" has to offer. I have since visited Mumbai which was a completely different cultural experience in itself, showcasing the modern India with dreams of Bollywood stardom, and the resourcefulness of such an overpopulated area in the Dharavi slums. I definitely plan on going back to visit South India's beautiful beaches in Goa, as I hear the food is much spicier than in the north which I love! Will I ever go back to the Taj Mahal? Probably not, but I will never forget the story of Shah Jahan and his eternal love of Mumtaz.
No comments:
Post a Comment